Kashgar

Kashgar is where the Silk Road's northern and southern Taklamakan Desert routes converge before continuing west toward Samarkand and the Ferghana Valley. The city claims the largest bazaar in Asia, a colourful mix of Uyghur, Han Chinese, Kyrgyz, Tajik and Uzbek traders, and feels distinctly Central Asian compared to eastern China. It is the main centre of Uyghur culture in China, with an old town, historic mosque, centuries-old tombs, and summer melon markets that cost around ¥1 per kilogram.

Kashgar is served by Kashgar Airport (18km north of town) with flights to/from Urumqi, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, weekly flights to Khujand in Tajikistan and Islamabad in Pakistan. The Kashgar railway station connects to the rest of China by rail. Trains are the slowest option but also the cheapest, leaving only a few times daily. International bus station is walkable from the city centre.

Most of Kashgar including the bus station, bazaar, main square and downtown can be reached on foot within 15-20 minutes. The railway station is reachable with public bus 28 which stops at Renmin Square. The old town and narrow alleyways are best explored on foot. Cross streets carefully as there are no pedestrian crossings; silent electric motorbikes run in special lanes between car lanes and pavement. Bicycles can be rented at major hotels like Qinibagh for typically less than ¥30/day. Taxis are available via Didi or by flagging one down.

Kashgar experiences extreme temperatures ranging from -9.9°C in January to 32.1°C in July-August. The best time to visit is during the summer months (May to August) when melons and watermelons flood the markets at around ¥1 per kilogram. The famous Sunday livestock market (Mal Bazaar) operates weekly. Winter months bring harsh cold requiring substantial preparation. The Id Kah Mosque hosts Uyghur dancing on Eid celebrations.

Budget accommodation includes Ella's Home (Uyghur ethnic village, 2km from Ancient City) with dorm beds from ¥72 including breakfast, and Kashgar Old City Youth Hostel (bus 28) with beds from ¥45/night. Mid-range options include Qiniwak Hotel (former British Consulate, dorms ¥50, doubles ¥160 with breakfast) and Red Willow Flower Hotel (double ¥230 with breakfast). Upscale choices include the Radisson Blu Hotel Kashgar with pool and the Kashi Tianyuan International Hotel (doubles ¥780-1,880 with breakfast).

Kashgar offers excellent local restaurants and street food. Try the food stalls opposite Id Kah Mosque that operate in the evenings, and the Sunday market for snacks. Specialty dishes include pollo or rice pilaf with raisins at Altun Orda Restaurant. Hami melons cost around ¥1/kg in summer. Avoid ice as it may be unclean; melons bought from vendors and cut yourself are the safest fresh fruit option. Alcohol is less available than in other parts of China. Western-style options include Karakoram Cafe on Seman Road and K2 Rooftop Cafe with mosque views.

Must-see attractions include the Id Kah Mosque (¥20, open 08:50-22:00, modest dress required), the Tomb of Apak Hoja (¥30, Islamic-style pilgrimage site), and the Old Town (partially rebuilt by government in 2017). The Mal Bazaar livestock market operates Sundays, reachable by bus 23 for ¥1 or taxi for ¥15-20. Day trips to Karakul Lake and Baisha Lake along the Karakoram Highway cost around ¥1,000 for a private SUV with driver including entrance tickets. Shipton's Arch Trekking offers a one-day trek through steep canyons to a 500m-high, 100m-wide arch.

Cross streets carefully as there are no pedestrian crossings and silent electric motorbikes run in their own lanes. Traffic can be dangerous for cyclists. Bargaining is expected but merchants will overcharge foreigners, sometimes by several hundred yuan. Some areas may require special travel permits; always carry your passport. The region has security presence typical of Xinjiang.

SIM cards are available from local providers. WiFi is common in hotels and some cafes. Power plugs use Type I (Australia/China style, 220V). Airport, hotels and banks have staff who speak some English. Translation apps on smartphones are helpful for communication. Taxi drivers generally do not understand English, so have your destination written in Mandarin.

Daily backpacker budget in Kashgar is relatively low. Dorm beds start at ¥40-72/night, street food meals cost ¥10-20, and local restaurants ¥20-50 per meal. Public transport is ¥1 by bus, taxis ¥15-20. Attractions like Id Kah Mosque cost ¥20, tombs ¥30 each. A day trip to Karakul Lake with private car costs around ¥1,000 total. Bargaining can save several hundred yuan on larger purchases.

Popular day trips include Baisha Lake and Karakul Lake along the stunning Karakoram Highway, reachable via tour agencies or private car. A private SUV with driver costs ¥1,000 including entrance tickets. The Mor Buddhist Pagoda is 40km northeast (7th century Tang dynasty ruins). Davakul Lake is 130km southeast for camel trekking in the Taklamakan Desert. Tashkurgan is a longer journey with old fort, wetlands, and Tajik family stays.

When visiting the Id Kah Mosque, dress modestly covering legs and shoulders; women should wear a hijab. Remove shoes before entering the carpeted prayer area. During Eid, local Uyghurs dance on the square in front of the mosque. Bargaining is expected and culturally appropriate in markets. Be polite but firm when negotiating prices.

Tashkurgan is a Silk Road town with an old fort and wetlands, where you can stay with Tajik families; on the road visit Baisha Lake and Karakul Lake, then continue to Khunjerab Pass or return to Kashgar. Kyrgyzstan is accessible via the Irkeshtam and Torugart passes. The Karakoram Highway leads south to Pakistan and India via Khunjerab Pass. Samarkand and the Ferghana Valley in Uzbekistan are logical onward Silk Road destinations.