Overview
Kandy is Sri Lanka's cultural capital, set among forested hills at 500 metres. The lake, sacred shrine and surrounding mountain routes create a compact inland stop with a strong ceremonial pulse.
Culture · Mountains · Festivals · Trekking
Did you know?
- Casket viewings at the Temple of the Tooth are scheduled for 5:30AM and 6:30PM.
- A decorated-elephant procession fills the Esala Perahera, usually in July or August.
- Tuk-tuks are quoted at Rs 60–70 per kilometer when haggled well.
Why go?
Kandy is Sri Lanka's cultural capital, 125 km inland from Colombo, sitting at 500m elevation amid forested hills. It holds the sacred Temple of the Tooth relic, traditional Kandyan dancing, and the annual Esala Perahera procession. The city retains Buddhist values and living traditions from the last kingdom conquered by the British in 1815, offering a slower, more contemplative pace than the coast.
Getting there
Kandy railway station lies 1 km SW of the city centre on the main line from Colombo. Long-distance buses depart from the bus station near Goods Shed station, including routes to Dambulla. The scenic train from Colombo to Ella passes through Kandy, offering hill-country views.
Get around
Three-wheelers (tuk-tuks) cost Rs 60-70 per km if you haggle well. Walking is recommended for the compact city centre around Kandy Lake. Suburban buses pass through the city center. Tuk-tuks run all night but beware of the tuk-tuk mafia at the railway station who may overcharge tourists.
When to go
The best time is December to March for dry weather. The Esala Perahera festival (usually July-August) features a grand procession with decorated elephants around the Temple of the Tooth. March-April shows the University of Peradeniya at its most beautiful. Avoid monsoon seasons when leeches are prevalent in forest areas.
Where to stay
Budget options include Burmese Rest (from Rs 300, the cheapest), Kandy City House (from Rs 2000), and McLeod Inn (Rs 1,300-1,700). Mid-range choices are Golden View Rest (from Rs 1,500) and Kandy Cottage (US$22-40). The city has hostels, budget hotels, midrange guesthouses, and splurge options like Amaya Hills and Mahaweli Reach.
Food and drink
Local eateries like Green Leaf Hotel serve rice and curry, rottis, and hoppers (evening only) at affordable prices. The Empire Cafe near the Temple of the Tooth offers wraps and Western/Eastern food. Slightly Chilled Lounge Bar is the most famous bar with Asian fusion food, sunset views, live music, and a pool table. Cheap bars on sidestreets sell 650ml beer for Rs 100. Victory Hotel bar has arrack from Rs 700 and beer at Rs 195.
Things to do
The Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa) is the holiest Buddhist shrine in Sri Lanka, with casket viewings at 5:30AM and 6:30PM. Kandyan dancing performances at Kandy Cultural Centre cost Rs 2,000-3,500. The Royal Botanical Garden in Peradeniya (buses No. 724, 30 min) showcases orchids, a giant banyan tree, and a suspension bridge. Udawattakele Royal Forest Sanctuary has monkeys and tranquil ponds but beware of leeches after rain.
Connectivity
WiFi is available at most accommodations and cafes. Sri Lanka uses Type D power plugs (230V @ 50Hz). Mobile providers include Dialog, Mobitel, and Etisalat with 4G coverage in the city.
Safety
Kandy has a lower crime rate than most other parts of Sri Lanka. However, beware of tuk-tuk drivers near the railway station who may overcharge or threaten Uber/PickMe drivers. Keep belongings secure in crowded areas. The tuk-tuk mafia is known to rip off tourists at the station.
Go next
Dambulla is 72 km north via bus No. 43 (Rs 470, 2 hours). The Knuckles Mountain Range offers forest trails and campsites, the best trekking in Sri Lanka. Matale is 25 km north, reachable by train. The scenic train to Ella passes through Haputale and Nuwara Eliya. A day trip can combine Sigiriya (2.5 hours), Dambulla, and Matale with a driver.
Guide text adapted from Wikivoyage contributors under CC BY-SA 4.0.
Where to start
Eat
Avanhala
Good food and best scenery.
Eat
Bakehouse
For snacks or traditional Sri Lankan meals. Scenic view of the City, from its first floor balcony, where they serve a Sri Lankan buffet, but this tends to sell out by about 7:30PM.
Eat
Devon Food Court
Famous for quality snacks. Captain's Table is upstairs from Devons. Good Sri Lankan and South Indian food.
Eat
Dinemore
Just opposite to the Anniewatta tunnel. On the top of Nihal's Super. Good quality Mid-Eastern and South-Indian food for affordable prices.
Eat
Flower Song Chinese Restaurant
It sells excellent Chinese food with huge portions of rice or noodles. It's clean, air-conditioned, and serves beers and wines.
Eat
Green Leaf Hotel and Bakers
Great local eatery just one block back from the main street. Full range of rottis, rice and curry and hoppers (evening only). Good service and very affordable prices.
Eat
Lyons
In front of the Hindu Kovil. Serves good quality food, both Western and Eastern.
Eat
Slightly Chilled Lounge Bar
Slightly Chilled is the most famous restaurant and bar in Kandy. Travellers flock there to catch the sunset, meet other travelers and enjoy the views and the food, which is Asian fusion of Chinese dishes and Western pub grub. Run by an English guy who has lived in Asia since 1993 and his Chinese wife, are very hands-on and try to make everyone feel welcome. With a free pool table at the back and live sports bar showing premiership football, a view of the lake and city, Live music and Dj at night.
Price when recorded: Free Entry
Before you go
Culture
Kandy is the cultural capital of Sri Lanka with strong Buddhist traditions. Modest dress is required at temples. The annual Esala Perahera is a major festival.
Money
Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR) is the local currency. ATMs are available in the city centre. Many budget establishments are cash-only.
Safety
Lower crime rate than Colombo. Beware of tuk-tuk mafia at railway station. Secure belongings in crowded areas.
Transport
Tuk-tuks cost Rs 60-70 per km. Buses are cheap for getting to Peradeniya and nearby destinations. Scenic train to Ella is a highlight.
Weather
Best visited December to March. Kandy sits at 500m elevation, so temperatures are cooler than the coast. March-April is beautiful at Peradeniya.