Harrogate

Harrogate is an elegant Regency/Victorian spa town with protected period architecture, fine public gardens, and the famous Betty's Tea Rooms. The town offers a genteel atmosphere, historic Turkish baths, and excellent dining options, while sitting on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales. Its spa heyday was 19th century, but the preserved town centre retains its period charm with relatively few modern intrusions.

The name Harrogate derives from Old Norse 'horgr gata' meaning street to a heap of stones. It was a cluster of separate villages until its spa waters became fashionable in the 17th century, when accommodation and amusements were built for visitors. The amusements were essential as the waters are cold and pungent. Harrogate's heyday was the Regency/Victorian era, and the local council protected the old centre, preserving its period charm. The town has 164,100 residents as of 2024.

Leeds-Bradford International Airport (LBA) is actually more accessible from Harrogate than from Leeds or Bradford, lying north of those cities. It has good connections from Dublin, Amsterdam, Dusseldorf, Paris, Brussels, and domestic flights from Southampton, Exeter, and Belfast. Budget carrier Jet2 is based here. Bus 737 connects the airport to Harrogate town centre. Harrogate railway station has direct trains from Leeds, York, and the north, with additional stops at Pannal, Hornbeam Park, and Starbeck.

Walking is best for the town centre, and cycling will quickly get you to outlying attractions. Avoid driving in town as it can be very congested. Harrogate Buses circulate around town, with Bus 1 running to Knaresborough. Mainline taxis (phone +44 1423 555555) is the most reliable operator.

Harrogate hosts several major events: the Harrogate Flower Show (April and September), International Festival in June-July with classical music, the Great Yorkshire Show (9-12 July 2024), Crime Writing Festival (July), and Literature Festival in October. The town is busiest during the Great Yorkshire Show when accommodation can become booked out—consider staying in Leeds and day-tripping by train instead.

Betty's Tea Rooms on Parliament Street is famous with long queues at weekends—get bakery items for a picnic instead. The Royal Pump Room Museum celebrates the town's spa heyday with mineral-rich springs discovered circa 1571; taste the sulphur-infused water. The Mercer Art Gallery displays mostly 19th and 20th century fine art. Valley Gardens is the main park with floral displays and historic springs. St Wilfrid's is an elegant Anglican church completed in 1914 on Duchy Road, and St Peter's (1870) is near the station.

The Turkish Baths on Parliament Street offer a splendid Moorish-style sauna and soak (two-hour session £35, daily 9AM-8:30PM). The Royal Hall is an Edwardian theatre of 1903 on Ripon Road, and Harrogate Theatre is at 6 Oxford St. For cinema, Everyman is on Station Parade and Odeon on East Parade. Sports include Harrogate Town AFC (League Two) at CNG Stadium, Harrogate RUFC, and golf courses at Harrogate GC, Rudding Park, Pannal GC, and Oakdale GC.

Waitrose is at 92 Station Parade, 200 yards south of the station, open M-Sa 8AM-8PM, Su 10AM-4PM. The Victoria Shopping Centre opposite the station has elegant arcades and parking, open M-Sa 9AM-6PM, Su 10AM-4:30PM. For a unique souvenir, visit The Oldest Sweet Shop in the World in Pateley Bridge—get 10 traffic light lollipops for less than £4.

Betty's Tea Rooms is the famous institution on Parliament Street, open daily 9AM-9PM. Shalimar at 9 Cheltenham Parade is considered the best of the Indian restaurants there, open Tu-Su 5-10PM. Giggling Squid is a Thai restaurant at 1 John St, open daily noon-10:30PM. Other options include Drum & Monkey (seafood with French influence), Mykonos (Greek bistro), Harrogate Brasserie, The Ivy (classic British fare), William & Victoria (British cuisine), and Three's a Crowd (modern fusion with vegetarian options).

Cheltenham Parade alternates pubs with curry houses, with Harrogate Tap in the railway station and venues near the theatre including North Bar, Trotters, The Inn, Little Ale House, and Christie's. Parliament Street has The Winter Gardens (JD Wetherspoon), Mojo, Roland's, All Bar One, Foundry Project, Major Tom's Social, and Harrogate Arms. Local breweries are Harrogate Brewing, Daleside, and Rooster's. Harrogate Spring Water is a commercial brand of local spring water, low in minerals—unlike the high-mineral spa water.

Many Harrogate hotels date back 200 years as a spa town, offering real character. Budget chains include Travelodge on The Ginnel near Old Swan and Premier Inn Town Centre at 9 Springfield Ave. Mid-range options include The Crown (B&B double £120, opposite Old Swan), White Hart (B&B double £120, 250-year-old coaching inn), and Hotel du Vin (B&B double £160). Luxury options are West Park Hotel (B&B double £220) and Rudding Park (B&B double £300), a plush countryside Georgian mansion with spa and golf course. B&Bs are in leafy suburbs further out.

Harrogate is mostly a very safe town with little drunken anti-social behaviour even at night. The main caution is to stay away from Valley Gardens after dark, where low lighting occasionally attracts dubious characters.

As of April 2024, Harrogate and its approach roads have 4G from Vodafone and 5G from EE, O2 and Three.

Knaresborough four miles east has a ruined 12th-century castle and witch's lair by the River Nidd. Near Ripon is must-see Fountains Abbey. The Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors are scenic national parks easily reached by car. York is a charming walled city with the 'Harrogate Hoard'—almost 700 Viking coins discovered locally in 2007—in its Yorkshire Museum. Ripley Castle (18th century mansion) is open April-October daily 10AM-4PM. Brimham Rocks (10 miles north off B6165) has striking Millstone Grit formations, free entry. RHS Harlow Carr Gardens is 3 miles south with its own Betty's Tea Rooms.