Exeter
Western Europe · United Kingdom
Did you know?
- A Roman military base was built beside the River Exe in AD 50.
- Medieval underground passages were built to carry water into the city.
- The cathedral's Gothic vaulting stretches above a long central nave.
See also
Overview
Exeter's history reaches back to a Roman military base beside the River Exe. The settlement occupied a strategic river crossing.
Languages: English
Why go?
Exeter is the county town of Devon and historically the administrative capital of the south-west peninsula. This historic mid-sized cathedral city offers a good blend of arts, education, retail and history. With a population of around 110,000, it is regularly voted among the top 3 cities in the UK for quality of life. Tourism facilities exist but do not dominate, making it an authentic English city experience.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Understand
In AD 50 a Roman military base was built at a strategic crossing point on the banks of the River Exe. The settlement's Roman name, Isca Dumnomiorum, means "town of the Dumnonii tribe." Parts of the original Roman walls can still be seen next to Rougemont Gardens. The city was twice captured by Vikings during the Dark Ages. Following the Norman Conquest, William the Conqueror laid siege and built Rougemont Castle to ensure compliance. During the renaissance, Exeter prospered through the wool industry. It remained a significant seaport until the age of steam but missed later industrialisation. The city was badly damaged in a 1942 incendiary bombing raid on the High Street.
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Getting in
Exeter is well-connected by rail with Exeter St Davids the main station, offering journeys from London Paddington in 2-3 hours (averaging 2 hours 30 minutes). Exeter Central station provides a slower service from London Waterloo via Salisbury. Exeter Airport is located 5 miles east in Clyst Honiton off the A30. The city has a bus station on Paris Street serving local and long-distance coaches.
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Getting around
Exeter is a walkable city with most attractions within the compact city centre. The main train stations are Exeter St Davids (15-minute walk to city centre) and Exeter Central (5-minute walk along Queen Street). Local bus services connect to surrounding areas including Topsham, Exmouth, and Starcross.
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When to go
Exeter can be visited year-round, though spring and summer offer the best weather for walking tours and outdoor activities along the canal and river. The Christmas period brings festive markets to Cathedral Green. Summer is ideal for enjoying the quayside and taking day trips to nearby beaches at Exmouth and Dawlish Warren.
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Where to stay
Exeter offers accommodation across all budgets. Budget travellers can stay at Globe Backpackers (71 Holloway St) at £17 per night. Mid-range options include Premier Inn Exeter Central St Davids from £35 and Leonardo Hotel from £79. For luxury, Hotel du Vin on Magdalen Street offers 4-star rooms with spa from £89. University of Exeter offers B&B accommodation on Streatham Campus during Easter and summer vacations from £60 double.
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Food and drink
Exeter's dining scene includes options from casual pubs to fine dining. The Plant (1 Cathedral Yard) offers vegetarian snacks. Dinosaur Café (5 New North Rd) serves Turkish meze at around £15 for three courses. Traditional British pubs like the Hour Glass (21 Melbourne St) offer real ale and pub fare. Italian cuisine is available at On The Water Front (4-9 The Quay) in a 19th-century brick warehouse. For late-night fare, The Old Firehouse (50 New North Rd) serves 14-inch pizzas until the early hours for £7 each.
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Things to do
Exeter Cathedral (EX1 1HS) is the city's top attraction with the world's longest unbroken stone roof beam; entry is £8.50 adults, £6 students/seniors. Underground passages (2 Paris St) offer one-hour tours of the medieval water system for £4.90 adults. The Royal Albert Memorial Museum (Queen St) is free and open Tu-Su. Free guided tours with Redcoat volunteer guides leave from Cathedral Green or the Quay. Sports fans can watch Exeter Chiefs rugby at Sandy Park Stadium or Exeter City FC at St James Park.
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Buy
The High Street features national clothing and electronics chains. Independent shops concentrate on Fore Street (outdoor goods), Gandy Street, and Cathedral Green. Magdalen Road, a few minutes from the city centre, has award-winning butchers and fishmongers plus handmade jewellery shops. The major Princesshay redevelopment brought new shops including an Apple store. Shopping centres include Guildhall and Harlequins.
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Stay safe
Exeter is very safe compared to other UK cities. Homeless people may occasionally ask for money but most are not aggressive and will move on if you politely decline.
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Connect
As of September 2023, Exeter and its approach roads have 4G coverage from O2 and Vodafone, and 5G from EE and Three.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Day trips
Exeter serves as a gateway to Dartmoor and Plymouth. Beaches are easily reachable at Exmouth and Dawlish Warren. Scenic towns include Lyme Regis to the east, Totnes, and Dartmouth to the south. The village of Starcross and Dawlish Warren are reachable via the west river bank cycle path. Topsham offers gastronomic dining, while Lympstone and Exmouth are accessible by bike or boat along the canal and river.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Go next
From Exeter, Dartmoor and Exmoor National Parks offer hiking and outdoor activities. The A30 provides access west to Plymouth and Cornwall, while the M5 motorway connects north to Bristol. The A38 leads to Buckfastleigh and continues to Plymouth. The coastal town of Torquay is accessible via the A380.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Field guide adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0. Text has been adapted and organized for this guide. About our sources.
Places to know
A few starting points from the guide. Check current hours and prices before you go.
- eat
@Angela's
Modern British & French cuisine, locally sourced.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Al-Farid
Moroccan.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Dinosaur Café
Small family-owned Turkish and English cafe. All sorts of meze dishes, which are truly delicious. Large portions and inexpensive compared to similar restaurants. Also a bookshop, and something of a legend for University folk.
Recorded price: £15 for three courses without alcohol
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Gandhi
Traditional Brit Indian, inexpensive.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Hour Glass
Wood-panelled pub with real ale & traditional fare.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Olive Tree
Modern British cuisine.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
On The Water Front
Italian, in 19th-century brick warehouse, the pizzas are huge.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- do
Barnfield Theatre
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
Before you go
Connectivity
4G available from O2 and Vodafone; 5G from EE and Three as of 2023.
Language
English is the primary language. Local Devon dialect features occasionally.
Money
Prices in Exeter follow UK norms with GBP as currency. Budget backpackers should budget £40-60 per day for accommodation and meals.
Safety
Exeter is considered very safe for a UK city. Use normal urban precautions.
Transport
Exeter St Davids is the main railway station with 2-3 hour journeys from London Paddington. Exeter Airport is 5 miles east off the A30.
Weather
Exeter enjoys a mild south-west climate but expect changeable weather. Summer (June-August) is warmest for outdoor activities.