Dharamsala
South Asia · India
Did you know?
- Triund is a 6 km walk taking about 3 hours one way.
- Momos and thukpa are easy clues to the Tibetan-Indian food mix.
- Local Tibetan Buddhist roots stretch back to the 8th century.
See also
Overview
Dharamsala is a cool hill station shaped by its large Tibetan community and the activities of the Dalai Lama. It suits travelers drawn to Buddhist culture and an energetic backpacker scene rather than quiet isolation.
Languages: English, Hindi, Tamil
Why go?
Dharamsala is a hill station in Himachal Pradesh, famed for its large Tibetan community centred on the activities of the Dalai Lama. The Tibetan Buddhist roots stretch back to the 8th century. It is a popular hang-out for foreigners and students of Buddhism, though some consider McLeod Ganj a backpacker ghetto. Don't come expecting calm and tranquillity.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
When to go
Lower Dharamsala is at an altitude of 1,400 m, while McLeod Ganj is at around 1,750 m, making them considerably cooler than the plains below. Temperatures in January can dip below freezing, while June can go up to 38°C. The monsoon from July to September is very wet. Even in March, when the Dalai Lama holds his teachings, you will still need a heavy winter coat.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Get around
McLeod Ganj is walkable, but auto-rickshaws and taxis are available. An auto-rickshaw counter charges ₹50–250. A cable car (Dharamsala Skyway) connects Lower Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj, with one-way/return fares of ₹450/675.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Where to stay
McLeod Ganj has a wide selection of accommodation, from budget guesthouses to hostels. Cheap options include Snow Lion Guest House (₹175 tiny double with shared bathroom), Tara bed & breakfast (₹800–1,000), and Pema Thang's Guest House (double rooms ₹770–1,100). Bhagsu and Haini have more hostels. For long-term stays, head down the Yongling stairs on Jogiwara Road.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Food and drink
Dharamsala offers Tibetan and Indian food. Try momos (₹50–70) at JJI Exile Brothers or McLLeo Momos, thukpa (₹40–80), and Tibetan bread. Many cafes serve Western fare. Filtered water refills are available at LHA (Temple Rd), Environmental Education Centre (Bhasgu Rd), and Dogga-Centre (Jogiwara Rd), often for ₹5–10.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Things to do
Key attractions include the Tsuglagkhang Complex (largest Tibetan temple outside Tibet), HPCA Cricket Stadium (₹20), Tibet Museum (₹5), St. John Cathedral in the Wilderness, and Bhagsu Waterfall. Popular treks are Triund (6 km, 3 hr one-way), Laka Glacier, Indrahar Pass, and Kareri Lake. Learn Tibetan Buddhism, yoga, meditation, or cooking at Tushita Meditation Centre (10-day course from ₹4,800) or Lha Charitable Trust (cooking class ₹300).
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Stay safe
The place is safe, but stay vigilant at all times and be very cautious if staying out after 9PM. Be careful if swimming in the upper pools of Bhagsu Waterfall, as there may be shards of glass.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Budget
A daily backpacker budget in Dharamsala can be around ₹800–1,500. Dorm beds cost ₹175–800, meals ₹50–150, and local transport ₹50–250. Filtered water refills are ₹5–10.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Go next
Amritsar (6 hr bus), Bir (paragliding hub), Dalhousie, Manali, Palampur (tea gardens), and Sidhbari (peaceful village) are nearby destinations.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Field guide adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0. Text has been adapted and organized for this guide. About our sources.
Places to know
A few starting points from the guide. Check current hours and prices before you go.
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Common Ground Café
A non-profit café set up as a meeting place between Chinese and Tibetans that holds many discussions and shows promoting harmony and understanding between the two cultures. Taiwanese and fusion food served in a place to sit and relax with your shoes off on the raised seating area.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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Friends Corner Café
Various inexpensive dishes in a shed protected from the rain. Frequented regularly and great variety.
Recorded price: Dal ₹90, Boondi Raita ₹90
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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Heena Café
Not particular fancy, but cheapest choice around. Run by two brothers, they have large terrace where you can enjoy watching people walking by to the Galu Waterfall.
Recorded price: Chai ₹20, Parantha ₹50
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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JJI Exile Brothers Mom's Kitchen
A cozy little hole-in-the-wall place with 5 tables, a counter and a dog. Owned by three Tibetan musician brothers "JJI Exile Brothers" who give live performances on the premises on Sundays at 7:30PM. Decent Tibetan food, with 5 versions of thukpa and thenthuk each (₹50–80), brown-flour momos (₹50–70, including the rare spinach variety), and several less-well-known Tibetan specialties (such as tingmo (steamed bread) with vegetables, ₹60–70); also vegetable and fruit salads (₹40–60). Desserts include vegan chocolate cake and rum cake with nuts, and several varieties of pancakes (₹40–60), styles of porridge, and fresh juices (₹40–50). Portions tend to be smallish. A bookshelf with some reading materials.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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Jimmy's Italian Kitchen
Nice decor with old, and not-so-old, film posters, unprofessional staff apparently left unsupervised by the owners. Food better than that offered at the other Italian-style places in town, with great salads and acceptable pastas (napolitana, arrabbiata, quattro formaggi, puttanesca) and pizzas.
Recorded price: ₹100–130
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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Kali Yuga BBQ
Some Russian speaking folks are running this restaurant specialising in various meat dishes. It is still cheap compared to Western standards, but most Indians wouldn't be ablt to afford dining here.
Recorded price: ₹500 and above
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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Lhamo's Croissant
A simple yet stylish cafe, and probably the most underrated place in McLeod. Breakfasts, sandwiches, soups, salads and desserts, coffees and teas. A good selection of vegetarian and vegan dishes. The bread is baked fresh each morning by Lhamo. The second floor has comfortable Japanese style seating on cushions and Tibetan carpets. Fantastic views from the roof top.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
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Lung-Ta
Excellent Japanese food, pay attention to the daily specials. There is also a small clothing store which sells high-end Tibetan inspired fashions. Non-profit with proceeds going towards assisting former political prisoners and documenting human rights violations.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
Before you go
Money
Prices are in Indian Rupees (₹). Cash is widely used; ATMs available in McLeod Ganj.
Safety
Stay vigilant after 9PM. Avoid upper pools at Bhagsu Waterfall due to glass shards.
Transport
Auto-rickshaw from Dharamsala Airport to McLeod Ganj quoted ₹800–1,260. Cable car (Skyway) ₹450/675 one-way/return.
Water
Filtered water refill stations available at LHA, Environmental Education Centre, and Dogga-Centre for ₹5–10.