Dhaka

Dhaka emerged as a cosmopolitan city during the Mughal Empire and today serves as an important financial center alongside Mumbai and Karachi. Modern Dhaka is a thriving, colourful and congested metropolis with one of the highest population densities on the planet. The city plays host to the highest number of rickshaws in the world and is the center of Bangladesh's textile industry, the country's principal foreign exchange earner. Its streets and rivers are filled with colourful chaos that can seem overwhelming but offers authentic urban South Asian experiences.

The dry season from November to March offers the most comfortable weather, with daytime highs averaging 29°C (84°F) and cooler nights down to 13°C (55°F). The monsoon season from May to September brings very hot, humid, and rainy conditions with daytime highs averaging 32°C (90°F), and some days reaching 35°C (95°F). Dense fog between November and January may disrupt flights and ferry transport. Visitors from cooler countries should plan visits during the dry season for more comfortable exploration.

Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport (DAC) serves Dhaka with regular international flights from Bahrain, Bangkok, Colombo, Doha, Dubai, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Jeddah, Karachi, Kuala Lumpur, Kathmandu, Kolkata, Kuwait, Kunming, London, Male, Mumbai, Muscat, New Delhi, Paro, Singapore, and Yangon. Biman Bangladesh Airlines operates flights to 21 cities in Europe and Asia. Domestic flights link five cities within the country. Most foreign nationals require a visa, though some can obtain one upon arrival for US$51 or €51. Kamalapur railway station is the central hub with over 50 trains arriving daily and eight platforms.

Dhaka is one of the most congested cities in the world with poorly developed roads, an inefficient traffic system, and frequent construction that can turn short trips into hours-long ordeals. The yellow cabs are the safest mode for tourists and can be rented for one trip or by the day. Cycle rickshaws are abundant but require keeping bags close to prevent grab-and-run theft. Bus services include Shohagh, Green Line, and Baghdad Express for intercity routes. When negotiating fares, walk a short distance to find more honest drivers and ensure they know your destination from the start.

The University of Dhaka features notable colonial buildings including Curzon Hall (a masterpiece of European-Mughal architecture), the Central Shaheed Minar (national monument of the Bengali Language Movement), and the tomb of National Poet Kazi Nazrul Islam. The Gurdwara Nanak Shahi, built in 1830, is the largest Sikh temple in Bangladesh. Hatirjheel offers a regional modernist transport system with numerous bridges and flyovers over a natural lake. The Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman Novo Theatre (Planetarium) is a state-of-the-art facility near Parliament. Ramna Green provides a vast green space surrounded by a serpentine lake.

Bargaining is expected at the bazars and markets, and substantial bargains are available. To gauge fair prices, check costs at Western-style fixed-price shops first, then deduct approximately 10% when negotiating at local markets. Old Dhaka offers some of the best deals on textiles and traditional crafts.

Old Dhaka offers cheap Bangladeshi meals starting from Tk 50, while upscale areas like Gulshan and Banani feature Chinese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Greek, and Mexican restaurants with buffet-style menus at Tk 250-400 fixed price. Local sweets like rasogollah and golap jam/pantuya/ledikeni are excellent bite-sized milk curd balls dipped in syrup, available in white and red varieties. Street food is primarily for locals—foreigners should stick to larger, organized outlets where locals are eating, avoiding empty restaurants or food carts. Imported goods from Dubai, Europe, Malaysia, and the US are available at premium prices.

International clubs (Dutch Club, Canadian Club, Nordic Club, American Club) offer alcohol access with membership or guest sign-in via a member. Local bars exist in most neighbourhoods but can be hard to locate. Popular beer brands (Heineken, Carlsberg, Tuborg, Foster's) and spirits are available at lower prices than hotel bars. The Dip and similar Bengali bars are smoke-filled establishments where beers start at Tk 150 and single-ounce spirit servings (tots) cost Tk 70-200 depending on brand.

Dhaka offers accommodation ranging from unkempt dormitory beds for a few US dollars to multinational hotel penthouses costing thousands per night. Gulshan and Banani host the most upscale options, while Old Dhaka provides budget-friendly choices near the train station and riverfront.

If arriving at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport at night, remain inside until morning as taxi driver kidnappings have occurred. Dhaka is generally safe but visitors should remain aware of surroundings and avoid walking alone at night. The greatest danger comes from speeding buses and rickshaws on main roads. During strikes (hartals), keep a low profile and avoid any large gatherings. Yellow cabs are the safest travel option—write down the licence plate number. Dial 999 for emergency assistance.

Air pollution is high year-round, comparable to other subcontinental cities, with many residents wearing face masks. Carry a handkerchief to cover mouth and nose during rickshaw rides or humid days. Water pollution from industrial waste affects waterways.

Internet cafes are widely available throughout Dhaka's shopping complexes, charging Tk 20-30 per hour. Many five-star hotels and restaurants provide free WiFi—ask staff for passwords when protected. Newsroom Cafe in Mohakhali (opposite East West University) and Kozmo Lounge in Dhanmondi offer free WiFi and internet kiosks for customers.

Sonargaon, approximately 29 km from Dhaka, offers a peaceful escape to rural life with worthwhile historic sights separated from one another. Hajiganj (about 10 km from Mografara bus stand) provides another historical site. Rejendrapur National Park lies 40 km north with 1,600 acres of national recreational forest and wildlife. Ashulia Lake is north of Dhaka. Cox's Bazar offers the world's longest sea beach for longer excursions.

From Dhaka, travelers can reach Bogra (220 km away, capital of ancient Bangla), Comilla (World War Cemetery, Kotbari Baddha Bihar, Salban Bihar), Cox's Bazar (world's longest sea beach), Gopalganj (birthplace of Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman), the Sundarbans in Satkhira (350 km away), and Sonargaon for day trips. Hajiganj offers historical interest approximately 10 km from Mografara bus stand.