Bukhara

Bukhara is a must-see destination on any tour of Uzbekistan, with a wealth of architecture and culture along the historic Silk Road. Its well-preserved Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Easily reached by plane, train or highway, it offers a relaxed national visa regime.

Bukhara International Airport has several flights a day from Tashkent, and daily from Urgench, Moscow and Istanbul. It's 4 km to the centre, easily reached by taxi or on foot. The railway station is at Kogon, 10 km away, with Afrosiyob high-speed trains from Samarkand and Tashkent. Buses and shared taxis also connect to other cities.

A swarm of small buses (marshrutkas) serve the city with a flat fare of 2000 Som in town and 3000 Som to Kogon. Bus #9 runs through the Old Town. Old Town is compact and pedestrianised, so walking is best. Taxis can be ordered via Yandex app to avoid rip-offs.

Bukhara dates back at least 2500 years. It became Islamic after the Arab conquest of 751 AD, blossomed under the Samanid dynasty, was sacked by Genghis Khan in 1220, and later embellished by Timur and the Shaybanids in the 16th century. Decline came with European maritime trade bypassing the Silk Road. In the 19th century it was caught in the Great Game between Britain and Russia, and eventually became part of the Russian Empire and Soviet Uzbekistan.

Accommodation in Bukhara ranges from budget hostels like Rumi Hotel (dorm bed 150,000 Som) to atmospheric guesthouses in restored merchant houses around Lyab-i Hauz, with B&B doubles from US$60 to US$150. All hotels charge a tourist tax of US$4 per person per night for non-citizens, usually extra to quoted price. Many places are cash-only.

Dining options include traditional Uzbek restaurants such as Doston House, Minzifa, and the Lyab-i Hauz Hotel restaurant. The Silk Road Tea House serves spice and herbal teas, and Shorud offers wine tasting. Street food and produce are available at the Central Bazaar. Haggling is expected for souvenirs.

Major attractions include the Lyab-i Hauz plaza, Po-i-Kalyan complex with the Kalyan Minaret (closed to tourists), Ark Citadel, Ismail Samani Mausoleum, Chor Minor, and the trading domes like Toqi Sarrafon and Toqi Zaragon. Also visit the Synagogue museum, Magok-i-Attari Mosque with carpet museum, and the Shukhov Tower observation deck (50,000 Som). For relaxation, try a traditional hammam like Hammam Borzi Kord.

Taxis often try to rip off tourists; always order through your accommodation or via the Yandex app for a reliable fare. The Old Town is compact and generally safe, but watch out for common tourist scams. The city is pedestrian-friendly.

All Uzbek mobile carriers provide 4G coverage in Bukhara and on approach highways. As of Sep 2024, 5G is not available. For visa registration, online via Emehmon is preferred; the OVIR office is a last resort.

Easily reached day trips include Sitori-i-Mokhi Khosa (summer palace of the last emir, 6 km north, admission 60,000 Som), Baha' al-Din Naqshband Mausoleum (10 km northeast, free), and Chor-Bakr necropolis (10 km west). Further afield, Khiva (5 hr), Samarkand (3 hr), Qarshi (2 hr), and Termez are accessible by train or taxi.

Recommended onward destinations: Khiva (5 hr northwest), Samarkand (3 hr east), and Qarshi (2 hr southeast). With private transport, visit Shahrisabz en route to Samarkand. Termez is further southeast on the border with Afghanistan.