Bikaner

Bikaner is a historic desert city in north-west Rajasthan that offers a more affordable, less crowded alternative to Jaipur and Jodhpur. The city is home to the formidable Junagarh Fort, one of the few in India that was never conquered, as well as ornate havelis, the eccentric Karni Mata Temple with its thousands of sacred rats, and legendary Bikaneri bhujia that gave the city its culinary fame. Camel safaris into the Thar Desert provide authentic desert experiences away from tourist crowds.

Bikaner lies in the semi-arid Thar Desert region of Rajasthan. Summers (April-June) are extremely hot, with temperatures reaching 42°C, while winters (November-February) are mild and pleasant at 7-26°C. The city has a rich royal heritage from the Bikaner royal family and was an important trading post on the Silk Road. Local architecture features red sandstone carvings, especially evident in the old-city havelis.

Bikaner is connected by air via Bikaner Airport (IATA: BKN) with limited flights. The primary arrival point is Bikaner Junction railway station on the broad gauge Delhi-Jodhpur line. Several express trains connect Bikaner to Delhi, Jaipur, and Jodhpur. Road access is via NH 11 and NH 15, with state-run and private buses operating from major Rajasthan cities.

Getting around Bikaner relies entirely on three-wheeler auto-rickshaws, as the narrow streets (deliberately designed to prevent sand from clogging them during frequent summer sandstorms) are unsuitable for cars. These autos are very cheap and a full day's hire shouldn't cost more than ₹250. Cycle rickshaws are also available for short distances within the old city.

Junagarh Fort (also called Bikaner Fort) was built by Raja Rai Singh between 1571-1612 and is remarkable for never being conquered. Its museum displays weapons, ornaments, and historical artifacts including the time when one king protected Hindus from Emperor Aurangzeb's forced conversions. The Jain Temple Bhandasar features ornate two-storied architecture with gold leaf paintings, marble pillars with floral arabesques, and vibrantly colored walls. The Karni Mata Temple in Deshnok, 32 km from Bikaner, is famous for its thousands of rats considered sacred by locals.

Bishnoi Camel Safaris is a grassroots tourism initiative that supports local camel men and provides fair prices while helping preserve camels in the Thar Desert. The project addresses the threat camels face from mechanization. Contact Mr. Bishnoi at arotuan@gmail.com or mobile 09461047725. Camel safaris typically include visits to desert villages and camping under the stars.

Bhujia Bazaar is famous for Bikaneri Bhujia, the city's signature spicy snack that has made Bikaner renowned across India. Visit Charkha (E-35 Khaturia Colony, thecharkha.com), a souvenir shop run by NGO Hastshilp that supports ancient village crafts and produces traditional hand-woven Khadi fabric inspired by Mahatma Gandhi's ideals. The old city has numerous shops selling camel leather goods, Lacquer bangles, and Rajasthani textiles.

A visit to Bhujia Bazaar is essential for food lovers—Bikaneri Bhujia is the city's most famous export. Chai Patti near the bazaar serves excellent kachoris and samosas that visitors fall in love with. Chhappan Bhog on Station Road (near Silver Square) is one of Bikaner's oldest fast food joints, famous for Rajkachori, Rava Dosa with fresh coconut chutney, and Indian-Chinese Chowmein. For cooling sweets, Sankhla Kesar Kulfi serves what locals claim is the best saffron kulfi in the city.

Budget and mid-range options cluster around the railway station area and Lalgarh. Hotel Shri Ram Heritage (A228 Sardul Ganj) offers nicely decorated rooms from ₹800-3000 with hot/cold water and a residential atmosphere. For heritage experience, Hotel Sagar on Lalgarh Palace campus has rooms from ₹1620-4350 in a grand palace setting with attentive staff. Luxury seekers should consider The Laxmi Niwas Palace (₹7500-28000), a 106-year-old former royal residence with 45 rooms, pool, and evening Rajasthani folk performances.

Gajner Palace, a heritage hotel near Bikaner, sits on a lake in the Thar Desert and was used as a hunting resort by British dignitaries during the Raj. The Karni Mata Temple at Deshnok is 32 km away and often combined as a day trip. Deserts beyond the city offer camel safari opportunities through Bishnoi villages. Continue to Jodhpur (the Blue City) or visit the golden desert of Jaisalmer, both reachable by train from Bikaner Junction.