Banlung
Southeast Asia · Cambodia
Did you know?
- Wat Rahtanharahm has a reclining Buddha and panoramic views.
- Virachey National Park can be explored on guided treks.
- Yeak Laom is a volcanic lake with swimming and hiking.
See also
Don Det
Laos13.97°N 105.92°E
Senmonorom
Cambodia12.45°N 107.20°E · 733 m
Overview
Banlung is a base for the forests, waterfalls and volcanic lake of Ratanakiri. Plan time for Yeak Laom and consider a guided trek in Virachey National Park.
Languages: Khmer
Why go?
Banlung, though a small town, is the capital of Ratanakiri Province in eastern Cambodia. The area is heavily forested with plantation agriculture and home to 12 ethnic minority groups, giving it an 'edge of civilization' feel. It's a base for spectacular natural attractions including waterfalls, a volcanic crater lake, and hill tribe villages.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Getting in
Buses to Banlung may be advertised as 'Ratanakiri'. The O Yadaw/Le Thanh border crossing from Vietnam is open, but Vietnam eVisas are not accepted, so a physical visa is needed. From Pleiku, take a public van (2 hr) or taxi (1.5 hr) to the border. The Cambodia post has no regular transport; bargain for a taxi (up to US$80 for a car or US$30 for a motorbike). Highway 78 is in excellent condition.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Getting around
The best way to get around is by motorcycle, either rented (US$5-7/day for 125cc, US$10 for 250cc) or with a motodop driver. Bicycles can be rented for US$1/day. Most guesthouses arrange guides. Almost no one outside town speaks English, so hiring a guide is recommended for village visits.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Where to stay
Accommodation ranges from budget dorms and basic rooms to upscale lodges. Banlung Balcony Guesthouse offers tents/dorms for US$2 and rooms US$4-10. Lakeside Chheng Lok has fan/air-con rooms US$5-20. Reggae Homestay has singles US$3, doubles US$5. Terres Rouges is the top-end option at US$35-60. Yaklom Resort near the lake has bungalows US$10-30.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Food and drink
Most restaurants are Cambodian-owned. Dishes start at around US$1.50. Western food is available at places like A'Dam, Gecko House, and Sal's. Banlung Reggae Bar serves US$3-5 meals with vegan options. Eat responsibly and avoid poached wildlife. Beer, wine, and spirits are sold at a few shops south of the roundabout.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Things to do
Key attractions include Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake (8,000 riel entry, swimming and hiking), Cha Ong and other waterfalls (2,000 riel each, best in rainy season), Virachey National Park (guided treks), and Wat Rahtanharahm with a reclining Buddha and panoramic views. Rubber plantations and gem mining tours can also be arranged.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Safety
There have been muggings around Banlung and gang robberies targeting isolated farms. In 2009, a French tourist was shot during an attempted robbery near Cha Ong Waterfall. Do not resist if accosted.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Connectivity
Acleda Bank has an ATM that accepts Visa (US$2 charge) and Canadia Bank also has a 24-hr ATM. Free Wi-Fi is available at some guesthouses and restaurants like Gecko House. Power plugs are the same as in Cambodia (Type A/C).
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Budget
A daily backpacker budget: dorm bed US$2-5, basic room US$5-10, meal US$1.50-3, motorbike rental US$5-7, attraction entry US$0.50-2. Total around US$15-25 per day.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Day trips
Day trips within the province include waterfalls (Cha Ong, Kan Chang, Ka Tieng), Yeak Laom Lake, Virachey National Park, and hill tribe villages. Longer onward routes: Kratie (pleasant riverside town) and Stung Treng (gateway to Laos).
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Etiquette
Ethnic minorities are animist and many taboos exist. During village ceremonies, outsiders may not enter; look for fresh tree leaves at the gate. Ask permission before taking photos. When unsure, do not enter villages without a guide.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Go next
Kratie – a pleasant riverside town, a nice break on the way to Phnom Penh. Stung Treng – most tourists pass through on the way to Laos.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Field guide adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0. Text has been adapted and organized for this guide. About our sources.
Places to know
A few starting points from the guide. Check current hours and prices before you go.
- sleep
Banlung Balcony Guesthouse and Restaurant
Some rooms have air-con and hot water; there is also a mixed 4-bed dorm and rooms with shared bathroom. Camping sites are also available on the large wooded property. Overlooking the lake, in the attached bar/restaurant is a small TV lounge with comfortable chairs in which to just read, watch the sunset or the large-screen TV with over 100 DVDs. Has a wide selection of Asian and Western food including vegetarian, but also an extensive, MSG-free, Khmer menu, including local ethnic minority dishes and forest meats. Open for meals 07:00-21:00, later for drinks. Full bar, a full-sized snooker table and dart board, free Wi-Fi, books to swap. This place used to be Lakeview Lodge, but there is some confusion as the previous owner uses the old Lakeview phone and email to book clients for his new place.
Recorded price: Tents/dorm US$2; rooms US$4-10
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Lakeside Chheng Lok Hotel
Overlooks Kan Siang Lake, featuring fan and air-con rooms, hot water and cable TV, plus some bungalows in the garden. Lakeview rooms are priced US$5 more than road view. The view across the water from the restaurant is its one real good feature.
Recorded price: US$5-10-15-20
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Reggae Homestay and Bar
Little local homestay including very basic dorms near the town center. The owner speaks good English, and also arranges independent tours such as jungle treks, and minority villages. Seems serious about quality and honest business practices.
Recorded price: Single US$3, double US$5, 5-person room US$8
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Terres Rouges
The town's top accommodation, boasting a large post-colonial villa-style guesthouse, a group of bungalow suites, a large pool and spa/massage facility and the town's best eatery set in sprawling tropical gardens overlooking the town lake. It is decorated with memorabilia reflecting the founders French Army "para" past. Its restaurant, Le Jovial Jarai, is arguably the finest restaurant in town, known for its garden setting and music. It serves a variety of Cambodian, Thai, Chinese and Western dishes and has a full bar, white jacketed waiters and table linen. Prices average US$4.50 per main dish with more expensive imported steaks.
Recorded price: US$35-60
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Tree Top Lodge
An unusual design with stilt-house bungalows connected by high walkways. Opened by an old tourism hand, "Mr T", it has nice views and a typical restaurant that is a little more expensive than its peers (beer US$1-1.25).
Recorded price: US$12-16
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Tribal Hotel
A range of rooms with some costing more than most, one option being a US$50 per night wooden house. The standard rooms have nice décor, with fans, air conditioning and cable TV.
Recorded price: Standard rooms, US$15-20; basic rooms around US$5.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Yaklom Hill Lodge
A nature lovers dream, with individual cottages dotted on a jungle hillside and 3 viewing platforms offering great views of the surrounding hills. Not for lovers of creature comforts, this is an eco-lodge: cottages have a small fan and two small lights powered by a solar cell system; electricity and hot water for showering is available 18:00-21:00 (if the generator works). Good food (Khmer/Lao/Thai), breakfast is included. Friendly staff, tours/guides can be organized.
Recorded price: US315 for a double/twin cottage
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Yaklom Resort
Has beautiful views all around, especially at sunset. They have bungalows and air-conditioned hotel rooms. It's out of the way, but it's near the lake and they have free transportation to the lake and to town so it's not so bad. The restaurant here is starting to attract travellers for sunset drinks. It's on top of a hill and has beautiful views all day, but especially sunset. Call them and they'll drive you up the hill for free from your guesthouse and drive you back.
Recorded price: US$10-30
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
Before you go
Connectivity
Free Wi-Fi at some guesthouses and restaurants. Limited mobile coverage outside town.
Culture
Respect local taboos in hill tribe villages. Ask permission before taking photos.
Food
Meals start at US$1.50. Try Khmer dishes and Western options at several restaurants.
Money
Only one bank (Acleda) has an ATM that accepts Visa; bring sufficient cash. Canadia Bank also has an ATM.
Safety
Muggings and gang robberies have been reported. Avoid isolated areas and do not resist if accosted.
Transport
Get around by motorbike (rental US$5-7/day) or hire a motodop. Bicycles also available (US$1/day).
Visa
Vietnam eVisas not accepted at O Yadaw crossing; need physical visa. Cambodia visas available on arrival.
Water
Tap water not safe; drink bottled or purified water.