Overview
Astana is a planned city shaped by Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa, with futuristic skyscrapers and modernist buildings. It became Kazakhstan's capital in 1998 after replacing Almaty, giving the skyline a distinctly modern identity.
Architecture · Transit Hub · Day Trips · Culture
Did you know?
- Kumis is fermented mare's milk; shubat is fermented camel milk.
- The daily train to Almaty is described as taking about 20 hours.
- The futuristic capital was planned by Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa.
Why go?
Astana is a planned city designed by Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa, featuring futuristic skyscrapers and modernist buildings. It became the capital in 1998, replacing Almaty, and has undergone rapid development with top international architects.
Getting in
Most Western passport holders do not need a visa for visits up to 30 days. The city is served by Nursultan Nazarbayev International Airport and two railway stations: Astana 1 (north side) and Astana Nurly Zhol (10 km east). Direct trains run daily from Almaty (20 hours) and Moscow (not daily).
When to go
The climate is continental with extreme temperatures: long, cold winters can drop below -35°C, while summers average 26°C during the day. Daylight ranges from 4:00-20:30 in June to 8:15-16:15 in winter. Summer is the most comfortable time to visit.
Food and drink
Local drinks include kumis (fermented mare's milk, slightly alcoholic), shubat (fermented camel milk), vodka (from US$2 to US$115), and cognac (brandy). Popular bar chains like Pinta and Panayehali serve food and live entertainment. Upscale cocktail bars like Dark Side and sports bars like Line Brew are also common.
Safety
Astana has no major safety issues; you can drive late at night without problems. However, bus drivers may shortchange you when buying tickets.
Connectivity
As of September 2024, Astana has 4G from Beeline and 5G from Kcell and Tele2. There is good signal on the approach highways.
Go next
From Astana, you can take a 13-21 hour train south to Almaty, or visit Burabay National Park (200 km north, 3 hours by train) with its lakes and rock formations. The Alzhir memorial museum (a former Gulag camp) is reachable by bus from Saparzhay station.
Guide text adapted from Wikivoyage contributors under CC BY-SA 4.0.
Where to start
Eat
Ali Babas
Popular summer restaurant. The waitresses and waiters dress in traditional dress and the menu offers a selection of central Asian cuisine. Prices are in line with Europe or America but the food is good. Fake bird cages hang from the roof which tweet electronically. Camel and horse milk are on offer alongside Leffe beer.
Price when recorded: 3000 tenge
Eat
Cafe Shymkent
Cheap and cheerful place.
Eat
Line Brew
Popular with expats and locals alike, Line Brew features its own brew of beer, with an impressive menu that includes several delicious steaks, including one made of horse meat.
Eat
Melnitsa
Ukrainian restaurant with large dining areas. Lots of traditional dishes like potato pancakes and of course Chicken Kyiv. Live music in the evenings. Fresh bread oven. Great décor, like a farmer's hut.
Price when recorded: Mains 500-3,000 tenge
Eat
Rafe
A modern coffee bar offering Italian food with a twist. Be sure to check out the horse pizza. A few other cafés around town.
Price when recorded: 3000 tenge
Eat
Saksaul
Restaurant with Kazakh cuisine and menu also in English. Good choice, although the staff doesn't seem professional all the time.
Eat
Sattj
Serves mainly Kazakh food, with some European.
Eat
Sunduk
Central Asian cuisine.
Before you go
Connectivity
4G from Beeline, 5G from Kcell and Tele2.
Language
Russian is the main language; English, German, and Turkish are understood in upscale hotels and restaurants.
Money
Cash machines are widely available in shopping centres, streets, and hotels. Visas are widely accepted; MasterCard may have issues. Dollars, euros, and rubles are readily exchanged.
Safety
No major safety concerns, but watch for bus drivers shortchanging you.
Weather
Extreme continental climate: very cold winters (below -35°C) and hot summers (up to 33°C).