Ankara

Until 1923, Ankara was a provincial town of less than 30,000. Then Atatürk made it the capital of the new Republic of Turkey, a deliberate shift from the Ottoman capital of Istanbul. The city has a rich heritage in its museums, galleries and mosques, and tourists who just transit on the way to Cappadocia are missing an important chapter in the story of Turkey and Asia Minor.

Ankara Esenboğa Airport (IATA: ESB) has direct flights from many European and Asian cities. Coach to city centre costs 200 TL. The railway station has high-speed trains from Istanbul and other cities. The main bus station AŞTİ (Ankara Intercity Terminal) serves intercity and international buses. Some coaches terminate at Söğütözü metro stop.

The city has a dense bus network, a two-line Metro, and an east-west suburban railway called Başkentray. EGO is the municipal public transport company. There is no provision for travellers with restricted mobility.

Ankara has a semi-arid, continental climate, with hot, dry summers and cold, snowy winters. Most rainfall is in spring. Summers regularly top 30°C in July and August, but humidity is low. Early autumn has the best climate with mild, dry days. Winters are cold and often snowy, though extreme cold below -20°C is rare.

Accommodation is clustered in Ulus north of the railway station, in Sıhhiye south of the tracks, and in Kızılay further south. A strip of mid-range business hotels follows D200 a few km west, more convenient for the bus station. Budget options include hostels like Bihostel and Deeps Hostel.

Ankara has a variety of local and international restaurants. Try Uludağ Kebapçısı for kebabs, Urumchi Uyghur Restaurant for Asian cuisine, or budget-friendly Nado's pizzeria and Zelal Cafe for traditional food. The Kızılay area has many eateries and bars.

Ankara offers opera, ballet, and concerts at the Opera House and Presidential Symphony Orchestra. Parks include Goksu Park, Youth Park, and Seğmenler Park. Festivals: Ankara International Music Festival in April, Bilkent Mayfest, Jazz Festival in Oct/Nov, and Ankara Film Festival in November.

Ankara is generally safe, even for single females at night, well-policed. The main hazard is traffic – vehicles are driven at silly speeds with scant regard to traffic lights and pedestrians. Sidewalks are often in poor condition. For emergencies call 112. Tourist police are based at AŞTİ bus station.

Ankara has 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of Jan 2024, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Ankara hosts several internationally high-ranking universities with large campuses: Bilkent, Hacettepe, and ODTÜ/METU. Hobby or vocational courses are available through the metropolitan municipality's Halk Eğitim Merkezi.

The Citadel approaches up Kale Kapısı Sk have been a merchandising area for centuries, with tourist-trappy outlets for carpets, leather and fake antiquities. Major shopping malls include Ankamall, Armada, Karum AVM, Metromall, and Kentpark. AVM stands for Alışveriş Merkezi, shopping centre.

Northwest, Highway D140 leads to Beypazarı and beyond. North to Kızılcahamam with thermal springs and Soğuksu National Park. Northeast to Boğazkale for ancient Hattuşa. South to Tuz Gölü (Salt Lake) and Aksaray. Southwest to Haymana spa town. West to Gordion (Yassıhöyük), an important ancient city.