Alexandria

Alexandria is Egypt's second largest city (5.2 million people in 2018), its largest seaport, and the country's window onto the Mediterranean Sea. The city is a faded shadow of its former glorious cosmopolitan self, but still worth a visit for its many cultural attractions – particularly the new Library of Alexandria – and still-palpable glimpses of its past.

Alexandria has a hot desert climate with sea breezes, sunny hot humid summers and mild wet winters. The best time to visit is spring (March–June) and autumn (September–November). Summer is very busy with Egyptian tourists escaping Cairo's heat.

Alexandria is served by Borg el Arab Airport, 45 km southwest of downtown. A taxi downtown takes 60-90 minutes. There is no public transport from the airport. The city is also reachable by train from Cairo, and by bus or car.

Alexandria is a long city but has good transport along the Corniche. Trams, microbuses, and taxis are available. The double-decker bus along the Corniche is a scenic option.

Visit the Citadel of Qaitbay, Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa, Pompey's Pillar, and the Roman amphitheatre at Kom el-Dikka. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a must-see. Relax on Maa'moura Beach or Montazah Beach, take a double-decker bus ride along the Corniche, or explore the Montazah Royal Gardens.

Seafood restaurants line the waterfront. Try Alexandrian ice cream, which is 'stretchy' and similar to Greek soft-serve, at shops near Qait Bey. Street vendors sell corn on the cob (dorra mashwey). Koshary, the Egyptian national dish, is popular and local tradition includes topping it with Alexandria-style fried liver (kibda Iskandarani).

Accommodation ranges from budget hostels like Ithaka Hostel and Alexandria Youth Hostel to mid-range options like Triomphe Hotel and Union Hotel, and upscale hotels such as Four Seasons San Stefano and Steigenberger Cecil Hotel. Many are along the Corniche.

Crime is rarely violent but beware of pickpockets. Don't flash valuables. Street kids and taxi drivers may harass tourists; a stern 'La.' usually works. Women should cover shoulders, midriffs, cleavage, and legs. Expect heckling; ignore and pretend not to hear.

Alexandria and the airport have 5G from all Egyptian carriers.

Abu Mena, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is 45 km south. El Alamein, 120 km west, has war memorials and museums. Marina El Alamein is an upmarket beach resort. Marsa Matruh is the start of the desert road to Siwa Oasis. Cairo can be done as a day trip but deserves longer.

Standard shop hours are daily until 10PM or later, with a siesta noon-4PM in summer. Nabi Daniel street has many booksellers with multilingual titles. Shopping malls include Deeb Mall, Green Plaza, San Stefano Grand Plaza, and Carrefour City Center.